The most beautiful multi day SUP expedition you could probably do in New Zealand, this is one not to be missed! Golden sandy beaches as far as the eye can see, turquoise sparkling water, seals and rays galore - this is a paddleboarding and camping expedition of epic proportions!
I had been desperate to do this paddle since arriving in New Zealand, and I was lucky to be joined by my friends Nick and Sarah so we could enjoy this one together, share laughs, stories, supplies and do our shuttles more easily on this one way paddle. You can read all about their review of this trip in their Paddle Journey's blog too!
I can't say it's very common to attempt this one on a SUP and only a handful of people have done this, so you definitely need to be comfortable on your board for three long days, have a good expedition set up on your board, have a touring board built to be stable in chop that is efficient over long distances.
Like any paddling on the ocean, you are at the hands of nature, so choosing a calm and low wind weather window for this trip is really important, especially if you are choosing to paddleboard (instead of kayak). You are more susceptible to the effects wind on a SUP, slower than in a kayak and it takes more to handle chop and swell - and there can be a far bit of swell to contend with!
But, you get the epic views from standing high up there, and what an achievement! There are so many stunning beaches to pull up on throughout the trip, so you won't be short of places to stop for breaks and stretch the legs!
Paddleboard the abel tasman
day 1 - Tata beach to anapai beach
After a night in Pohara camping, and a very early start, we launched from the beautiful Tata beach. This rugged wild stretch has lots of caves, archways, and bays to explore along the coastline, with heaps of seals sunbathing on the rocks watching you paddle past with one eyebrow raised in amusement. If they are feeling playful, they may come join you and swim around your board or with you for a wee while. We certainly had a lot of curious seals rolling in the sea all around us! Never approach any wildlife, always keep your distance and let them come to you.
Before you reach Wainui bay, you can stop at a little bay and see a whale skeleton washed up on Little Tata beach. Once you round the bend, the Wainui bay and inlet is big, so choose how far in you wish to paddle depending on how far you have to go, your speed and conditions.
Whariwharangi Beach and getting around Separation Point is always going to be a point of wild waves and high swell and wind, so be prepared for this section. It is also where the seal colony hang out so you won't be alone on this stage of the journey, and you will smell it before you see it! Once you are around the point, you are eased into the big, stunning Muttons Cove beach. This is a great camp spot if you wanted to make day one shorter.
Otherwise, carry on the extra kilometre to Anapai beach, a super small campsite (up to 6) on a tiny beach. We arrived here just after lunch, so we headed on a little bit further to play in some rocky outcrops and fish for mussels before heading back into the bay.
An excellent dinner of chickpea and lentil curry and homemade naans (thanks to Sarah and Nick, rathetr than my cooking abilities!), followed by a swim and an early night, so we could get up to enjoy sunrise on the beach!
Distance: 15km direct, longer if you paddle on from Anapai and back in like we did, or if you paddle more into Wainui bay.
day 2 - Anapai beach to mosquito bay
After a gorgeous sunrise, endless weka attempts of theft of our breakfasts, we got on the water about 9am and headed off for a big day! One of the highlights of this paddle is paddling into Shag Harbour, but this can only be done around the high tide. We suggest paddling in with the incoming tide the hour before, and out with the outgoing tide, the hour after. This means that this natural harbour will have enough water to paddle, and it's well worth it! As such, we headed straight to Shag Harbour (halfway down the marine reserve) as directly as possible to catch the incoming tide. We then headed back up to Awaroa to go explore the beautiful Awaroa inlet afterwards, retracing our steps, so if you get the tides right, you could save yourself some km here. Shag Harbour was one of our highlights so make sure you get here if you can! It feels like you are entering into a gorge with its high granite walls shaped by the tides. It is super protected from the elements, with a small oasis of calm. crystal clear shallow water, perfect for ray spotting. If you time it to visit in Spring, this becomes a nursery for baby seals with seal pups playing.
From here, we headed back up to Awaroa to go to the Awaroa Lodge for a well deserved cider and chips (yummmm). By this point, the north easterly wind was picking up in the day (lunchtime) so it was a hard old slog but we got there! Make sure you pull your boats up high on the beach before walking through the forest to the lodge.
We then had a headwind battle back around the headland at Awaroa Bay which was quite a challenge, and it turns out, we had quite the audience on the water taxi following our battle with the wind with much interest! I only found this out a few weeks later when they came into the shop (Moana) when I was working, and started telling me about the crazy girl on a paddleboard that they were cheering from the boat. When I told them that it was me, they insisted on a photo to send their family who were all discussing my novelty trip!
Anyway, once around the headwind, wee then downwinded with some big swell all the way to Mosquito Bay. We passed Onetahuti (beautiful big beach), Tonga Island, the Tonga Arches, and then round into our camp for the night. Here we shared stories with Freedom Kayak renters and enjoyed our dinner, very well earned after our paddle!
Distance: 20km paddling directly to Mosquito Bay, depending how much you go into the inlets, 25km if you backtrack like we did!
day 3 - Mosquito bay to marahau
Our last day and another beauty! We had been told about an orange buoy in the next bay (Barks Bay) from Mosquito which marks a hose connected to a fresh spring. You can pull this up and fill up your bottles from refreshing cold water - it was delicious!
We were on track with our tides to explore two more spots only accessible at the high tide - Sandfly Bay which weaves back to the mouth of Falls River, paddling under the swing bridge. The second is Frenchman's Bay - a pretty, shallow, peaceful lagoon to laze in. We headed back to Marahau stopping at these two spots to see more seals and birds. This section has so many beaches to get off and relax and enjoy the sunshine in! It is a busier part of the park though, so expect to see more hikers and more kayaks so you may not have beaches to yourselves anymore!
If you can, time your return to Marahau with a high tide, otherwise be prepared for a drag up the beach with your board, which could be up to a 1km depending on how far the tide is out. To avoid this, you could try paddling up the Marahau River, or paddling onto Kaiteriteri which is accessible at all tides. We ended up taking our own routes in, which ended with a long drag up the beach, which was hard after our three days paddling! I was hoping for a lift from a tractor but it didn't happen this time :)
Distance: 18km via Sandfly Bay (Falls River) and Frenchman's Bay (Lagoon)
What an amazing trip! This is one of my absolute highlights - can't wait to do it again and I felt super proud of this one!!
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WEATHER & TIDES
I use Windy, Wind Finder, Met Service and NIWA check the weather, wind and swell.
Download the tides a year ahead from Land Information New Zealand.
Until next time, happy paddling!
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