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Writer's pictureJo Taylor

PADDLEBOARD THE LENGTH OF THE ABEL TASMAN

Updated: Sep 22

The most beautiful multi day SUP expedition you could probably do in New Zealand, this is one not to be missed! Golden sandy beaches as far as the eye can see, turquoise sparkling water, seals and rays galore - this is a paddleboarding and camping expedition of epic proportions!


I had been desperate to do this paddle since arriving in New Zealand, and I was lucky to be joined by my friends Nick and Sarah so we could enjoy this one together, share laughs, stories, supplies and do our shuttles more easily on this one way paddle. You can read all about their review of this trip in their Paddle Journey's blog too!


I can't say it's very common to attempt this one on a SUP and only a handful of people have done this, so you definitely need to be comfortable on your board for three long days, have a good expedition set up on your board, have a touring board built to be stable in chop that is efficient over long distances.


Like any paddling on the ocean, you are at the hands of nature, so choosing a calm and low wind weather window for this trip is really important, especially if you are choosing to paddleboard (instead of kayak). You are more susceptible to the effects wind on a SUP, slower than in a kayak and it takes more to handle chop and swell - and there can be a far bit of swell to contend with!


But, you get the epic views from standing high up there, and what an achievement! There are so many stunning beaches to pull up on throughout the trip, so you won't be short of places to stop for breaks and stretch the legs!


Paddleboard the abel tasman

Gear loaded up on my paddleboard for a multi day trip across the Abel Tasman national park
Gear loaded up on my paddleboard for a multi day trip

day 1 - Tata beach to anapai beach

After a night in Pohara camping, and a very early start, we launched from the beautiful Tata beach. This rugged wild stretch has lots of caves, archways, and bays to explore along the coastline, with heaps of seals sunbathing on the rocks watching you paddle past with one eyebrow raised in amusement. If they are feeling playful, they may come join you and swim around your board or with you for a wee while. We certainly had a lot of curious seals rolling in the sea all around us! Never approach any wildlife, always keep your distance and let them come to you.


Before you reach Wainui bay, you can stop at a little bay and see a whale skeleton washed up on Little Tata beach. Once you round the bend, the Wainui bay and inlet is big, so choose how far in you wish to paddle depending on how far you have to go, your speed and conditions.


Whariwharangi Beach and getting around Separation Point is always going to be a point of wild waves and high swell and wind, so be prepared for this section. It is also where the seal colony hang out so you won't be alone on this stage of the journey, and you will smell it before you see it! Once you are around the point, you are eased into the big, stunning Muttons Cove beach. This is a great camp spot if you wanted to make day one shorter.


Otherwise, carry on the extra kilometre to Anapai beach, a super small campsite (up to 6) on a tiny beach. We arrived here just after lunch, so we headed on a little bit further to play in some rocky outcrops and fish for mussels before heading back into the bay.

An excellent dinner of chickpea and lentil curry and homemade naans (thanks to Sarah and Nick, rathetr than my cooking abilities!), followed by a swim and an early night, so we could get up to enjoy sunrise on the beach!

Distance: 15km direct, longer if you paddle on from Anapai and back in like we did, or if you paddle more into Wainui bay.


Stopping at Awaroa Lodge for a cider on our paddle
Stopping at Awaroa Lodge for a cider on our paddle

day 2 - Anapai beach to mosquito bay

After a gorgeous sunrise, endless weka attempts of theft of our breakfasts, we got on the water about 9am and headed off for a big day! One of the highlights of this paddle is paddling into Shag Harbour, but this can only be done around the high tide. We suggest paddling in with the incoming tide the hour before, and out with the outgoing tide, the hour after. This means that this natural harbour will have enough water to paddle, and it's well worth it! As such, we headed straight to Shag Harbour (halfway down the marine reserve) as directly as possible to catch the incoming tide. We then headed back up to Awaroa to go explore the beautiful Awaroa inlet afterwards, retracing our steps, so if you get the tides right, you could save yourself some km here. Shag Harbour was one of our highlights so make sure you get here if you can! It feels like you are entering into a gorge with its high granite walls shaped by the tides. It is super protected from the elements, with a small oasis of calm. crystal clear shallow water, perfect for ray spotting. If you time it to visit in Spring, this becomes a nursery for baby seals with seal pups playing.


From here, we headed back up to Awaroa to go to the Awaroa Lodge for a well deserved cider and chips (yummmm). By this point, the north easterly wind was picking up in the day (lunchtime) so it was a hard old slog but we got there! Make sure you pull your boats up high on the beach before walking through the forest to the lodge.

We then had a headwind battle back around the headland at Awaroa Bay which was quite a challenge, and it turns out, we had quite the audience on the water taxi following our battle with the wind with much interest! I only found this out a few weeks later when they came into the shop (Moana) when I was working, and started telling me about the crazy girl on a paddleboard that they were cheering from the boat. When I told them that it was me, they insisted on a photo to send their family who were all discussing my novelty trip!


Anyway, once around the headwind, wee then downwinded with some big swell all the way to Mosquito Bay. We passed Onetahuti (beautiful big beach), Tonga Island, the Tonga Arches, and then round into our camp for the night. Here we shared stories with Freedom Kayak renters and enjoyed our dinner, very well earned after our paddle!


Distance: 20km paddling directly to Mosquito Bay, depending how much you go into the inlets, 25km if you backtrack like we did!


day 3 - Mosquito bay to marahau

Our last day and another beauty! We had been told about an orange buoy in the next bay (Barks Bay) from Mosquito which marks a hose connected to a fresh spring. You can pull this up and fill up your bottles from refreshing cold water - it was delicious!


We were on track with our tides to explore two more spots only accessible at the high tide - Sandfly Bay which weaves back to the mouth of Falls River, paddling under the swing bridge. The second is Frenchman's Bay - a pretty, shallow, peaceful lagoon to laze in. We headed back to Marahau stopping at these two spots to see more seals and birds. This section has so many beaches to get off and relax and enjoy the sunshine in! It is a busier part of the park though, so expect to see more hikers and more kayaks so you may not have beaches to yourselves anymore!


If you can, time your return to Marahau with a high tide, otherwise be prepared for a drag up the beach with your board, which could be up to a 1km depending on how far the tide is out. To avoid this, you could try paddling up the Marahau River, or paddling onto Kaiteriteri which is accessible at all tides. We ended up taking our own routes in, which ended with a long drag up the beach, which was hard after our three days paddling! I was hoping for a lift from a tractor but it didn't happen this time :)


Distance: 18km via Sandfly Bay (Falls River) and Frenchman's Bay (Lagoon)


What an amazing trip! This is one of my absolute highlights - can't wait to do it again and I felt super proud of this one!!

 

ROUTE
























 

PADDLING INFO

RATING
  • Challenging

ROUTE & conditions
  • The beauty about the Abel Tasman is the flexibility to get the water taxi and choose where to start your paddle, or do the whole thing, like we did. It should always be done clockwise, starting at the most northerly point, as the north easterly wind will build throughout the day, so use it to help you on your journey rather than paddle against.

  • Total distance depends on the route, how much you explore into each inlet and bay, but allowing for three days of 20km each day would be a good estimation. .

  • Shag Harbour, Frenchman's Bay and Sandfly are well worth exploring but these are all only accessible on and around the high tide (2hrs either side).

  • In the summer, the sea breeze picks up throughout the day so the best paddle window is first thing in the morning before the sea breeze picks up so set off early each morning and finish up early before the breeze gets too strong. In winter, the park is quietest, the wind is lowest, the conditions are calmest, and it is still warm when the sun is shining!

WHERE TO PARK & LAUNCH
  • Launch: Tata Beach, Tasman, https://maps.app.goo.gl/Tyr62EbTGqXx5Vr6A

  • Free parking on the road at Tata Beach Esplanade, Petersen Road or Cornwall Place and launch from anywhere along the beach, easily accessible from Tata Beach Boat Ramp

  • Egress: Marahau waterfront (Sandy Bay/Marahau Road) by the boat ramp or public toilet (high tide or drag up the beach at low tide), or paddle/wade and drag your SUP up the Marahau river mouth at low tide until you reach the Harvey Road bridge, very close to the Abel Tasman DOC Car Park

  • Free parking at Abel Tasman DOC Car Park, 2 Harvey Road, Mārahau 7197, https://maps.app.goo.gl/niBZ79FDNzVT2sRV8 (15 mins walk away from the egress) or along the waterfront between these spots, in non restricted parking parts of the road such as by the Marahau Public Toilet on Sandy Bay/Marahau Road.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
  • Tata Beach: Golden Bay Kayaks  has a little coffee cart stand with delicious coffee on the beachfront or head to Pohara where there are some awesome cafes and restaurants along Abel Tasman Drive such as Alforno Pizza and Nikau Café and Bar.

  • Abel Tasman: Awaroa Lodge is a welcomed stop for chips, pizza, delicious cider or a refreshing beer! Set back from Awaroa beach down a track into the bush, don't forget to pull your SUPs right up the beach before heading in. Awaroa beach is a classy spot to stop and have a well earned break to use some plush loos, enjoy comfy seats and some luxuries! Check out the pizzeria set back in the garden bar during peak season too for bean bags and giant garden games!

  • Marahau: I love Hooked for a delicious cafe spot along the water front, the perfect waiting spot whilst shuttles are under way, or The Park Cafe for yummy pizzas by the Abel Tasman park entrance. This is a popular spot with locals for live music and a great vibe on a Thursday, Friday or Saturday night!

WHERE TO SLEEP
  • Pohara Top 10 Holiday Park is close by to the launch point at Tata Beach for a range of beach side camping, cabins and apartments with showers and facilities.

  • DOC Campsites must be booked in advance and you must stick to your booked itinerary. They can book up well in advance in Great Walk locations like the Abel Tasman, so book well ahead!

  • Day 1: Anapai Campsite: a very cute small campsite with up to 6 spots right on the small beach, with a water tap and a toilet. Or you could camp at Muttons Cove, nestled on a larger beautiful golden beach with the same facilities, that is often quiet too. Or if you wanted to stay in a DOC hut rather than camp, carry on to Totaranui, a larger, busier spot set back from the beach.

  • Day 2: Mosquito Bay Campsite: only accessible by boat or kayak, this is a beautiful spot filled with freedom kayak rentals camping at the top of the beach. There is also a sink at this one as well as water and toilets. The beach is very deep so if you arrive at low tide, expect a big carry up the beach, and be aware the tide comes right in so don't leave anything on the beach exposed at low tide!

  • Day 3: After your shuttles, stay up at Tata Beach again, or crash out in Marahau before heading home. In Marahau, I love The Barns with spectacular views, yoga, parking whilst you are in the park, a good range of sleeping options (glamping, camping, dorm rooms and private cabins), good coffee, and a swimming hole.

LOCAL INFO
  • NZ Maritime Law states a requirement to wear a buoyancy aid when paddleboarding (body or airbelt) and have two forms of communication (e.g. phone and whistle).

  • Due to hotter days, paddling here in the summer typically sees the sea breeze pick up in the afternoon, blowing a north easterly. A winter trip tends to see calmer waters, less wind and swell and quieter camp spots, but some eateries and tourist spots may be closed or operating reduced services during the quieter months.

  • Don't forget insect repellant for the sandflies, be aware of wasps and bees in the summer, and watch out for wekas (chicken like birds) as they will steal anything left unattended, and not only food! Hang your bags up on trees overnight where they can't get them, do not leave them in your tents, they will peck through!

  • You could jump on the water taxi with your kayak or SUP (prebooked) up to Totaranui and paddle back if you didn't want to bother with the shuttle.

  • Chat to the team at Abel Tasman Kayaks and the  Abel Tasman Centre  in Marahau for advice on tides and conditions a few days prior to your paddle, as they are always happy to help.

  • If you wish to hire a paddleboard to take it to the Abel Tasman, you can book a multiday hire with Paddle Nelson, in Nelson, for all your gear for your trip.

 

WEATHER & TIDES




























Until next time, happy paddling!




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